No trip to Edinburgh is complete without a meal at Timberyard, a warehouse away from home that never disappoints with their nod to Nordic small plates, classy cocktails and welcoming atmosphere. The inviting space dates back to the 19th Century when it was apparently a props and costume store, but the name comes from its more recent use as Lawson’s Timber. It reminds me a lot of The Dairy in London, another regular haunt, both in the style and delivery of the menu (with bonus snacks always forthcoming), and with regards to their use of produce grown on-site.
Set menus start at £55 for four courses (and can be stretched to eight), but there’s also an a la carte lunch / pre-theatre menu should you wish to keep the bill a little lower. Personally, I think it’s worth splashing out on the set menus, but they certainly don’t dumb down the a la carte options. On our last visit, the standout dish of four came right at the start – a beautifully constructed bowl of crab, lobster, pea, horseradish and brioche. This was closely followed by a plate of duck, served two ways, with elderberry, beetroot and chard for company. A friendly server is always on hand to expand on the minimalist menu clues, though it does tend to go in one ear and out the other after a pine sap negroni or two. We usually spend half the meal pointing at various smears and arguing about what’s what, but that’s all part of the fun, right?
I’m all for a bit of swagger on the savoury courses, but I often still long for a simpler dessert to finish it off – perhaps a rhubarb and apple crumble, a treacle tart, or a slice of baked cheesecake, you know? The sole option of blueberry, strawberry, oatmeal, buttermilk and mint on this occasion didn’t fill me with hope, but it was in fact a masterful array of textures, temperatures and flavours that left me wanting more. In fact, the whole meal left me wanting more. That’ll teach me to only get four courses. Not to worry – much like Arnie, and the sand people, I’ll be back.
Timberyard – www.timberyard.co
10 Lady Lawson St, Edinburgh, EH3 9DS
N.B. Be sure to book well in advance on the website!
